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Combat Photography
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Author:  MattGibbs [ Tue Nov 06, 2007 14:29 pm ]
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Very nice images AFPU! ;)
I've been watching several of the 530/16 on eBay but always either forget to bid, or get outbid, they seem very popular! Still, not given up yet hehe.
What film were you using on the Mons trip?


Author:  AFPU [ Tue Nov 06, 2007 14:43 pm ]
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The film used was a mixture of Ilford 100 ASA Black & White, the cheape rteh better to give an authentic look, together with 200 ASA Fujicolour; all obviously 120 format.

The colour is better as it can be developed by most high street photo labs, whereas the B&W has to be sent away. One option is to buy up bulk out of date film, and again the cheaper the better, to try and get a nice grainy quality; although the lens on the Super Ikonta's are so good you always get a nice crisp picture whatever film we use.

Without a doubt the best way to get the most authenic pictures as possible is as follows:
1. Use the correct period photograhpic kit (modern cameras will always give you pictures that look wrong).
2. Use basic film.
3. Make sure your subjects and locations are as authentic as possible and it is always the little things that make the difference such as in combat situations troop having their rifles cocked but the safety on, looking tired and dirty and their uniforms and kit having the lived in look. Unfortunately those taken at a weekend living history event with access to showers etc and some downtime will never acheive the same look........although the after affects of Saturday night in the beer tent can come close!

Author:  Mr_Flibble [ Tue Nov 06, 2007 17:28 pm ]
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As I've said a few times I use ADOX film. They produce film based on a recipe from the 1950s.
And indeed, pre-war uncoated lenses help achieve that 'authentic' look

Prewar Kodak Retina II (model 142), with ADOX CHS 100 ART. Graininess

Kodak produces a C-41 process Black and White film (b400cn or something), that can be developed at any 1-hour photo business. It is also available in 120film but I don't think they'll try there hand at 120 film any more. It's more expensive and 400 ISO/ASA which might give you trouble trying to get good exposures with old cameras.

Leica IIIa with 50mm Elmar lens, with that Kodak C-41 process B/W. Quite sharp.

Concerning getting a Zeiss Super Ikonta, I'll see what's on offer when I get round to it, and what my budget would be. I have no intention of re-enacting an AFPU photographer, so I thought I'd leave the war-time ones for you guys ;)

Author:  SNAFU [ Tue Nov 06, 2007 18:04 pm ]
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Hi Mr Fibble,
I thought I would add to AFPU's advice. He is dead right, a later Super Ikonta with chrome lens surround would look all wrong and you might end up with a coated lens! However, it depends on what you mean by 'silver trimmings.' I have known some confusion on this with one seller thinking that he had a later camera because it had chrome trim round the top. It's the lens surround that you need to look at. As I said before, turn up the sites on Google and familiarise yourself. There is one with a list of lens serial numbers to enable you to date the lenses although it is known that some post-war cameras were made up using pre-war lenses.
Regards, Dave.

Author:  Gripweed [ Tue Nov 06, 2007 18:33 pm ]
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Prewar Kodak Retina II (model 142), with ADOX CHS 100 ART. Graininess

VERY NICE and authentic!

Author:  Mr_Flibble [ Tue Nov 06, 2007 20:59 pm ]
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I feel it is slightly underexposed, but I agree; I really like the way it turned out.

I only resized it from a 300 dpi scan, nothing else.

I was indeed confused about the chrome part surrounding the lens on the Post-war Ikonta, I thought this was refering to the silver trim on the top and bottom of the camera. You learn something every day ;)

Author:  Correspondent [ Tue Nov 06, 2007 22:31 pm ]
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Gentlemen, my thanks, interesting thread, learnt a little bit and in fact have seen two Ikontas on Ebay, I nearly bid on them, but they were both post war (I didnt know about the silver surround to the lens).

Mr Fibble .. congrats on the Kodak 35 (shades of green here .. chuckle) and the pics look good. Is the Adox film available here or would I have to import it.

Author:  Mr_Flibble [ Wed Nov 07, 2007 7:44 am ]
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Not sure if ADOX film is available directly in the UK, I've ordered mine through http://www.efke.nl.
And I think you can order it through the German website as well (which has an english section).

At around 2.50 to 3.00 Euro per roll I find it comes at a cheap price. I'm thinking of ordering some 4x5" sheet film from them to use with my Speed Graphic. No idea where to have it developed though.

I'm really thrilled about having won that PH-324. Even if it doesn't work I have a civilian Kodak 35 that I can canibalize for parts. Shame it didn't come with a strap or an (n)ever-ready case. And the brass needs a bit of a touch up with black paint.
At 150 Euro it was a steal compared to prices being asked for them these days. I believe Ken's Cameras offers one for about $600 and it doesn't even work! :o

So, which is more correct for an AFPU photographer? The 6x6cm Ikonta or the 6x9cm one?

Author:  Olive Drab [ Wed Nov 07, 2007 9:35 am ]
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Yes, that a nice find....been looking for one of these for years!! :D :D :D

Author:  Mr_Flibble [ Wed Nov 07, 2007 10:02 am ]
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I've been outbid on these Kodaks more times than I care to remember.
I was offered one in pristine condition for $1500 about a year ago :o

This one is on its way to me as we speak! JOY! :)

Author:  Olive Drab [ Wed Nov 07, 2007 10:18 am ]
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Nice...now that has a history..... :D

Author:  SNAFU [ Wed Nov 07, 2007 10:39 am ]
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Hi Mr Fibble,
The 530/16 and the 532/16 Super Ikontas are both 6x6 and correct for AFPU. I don't think that AFPU was ever issued with 6x9. Well done with the Kodak. Hope its ok.
Regards, Dave.

Author:  Correspondent [ Wed Nov 07, 2007 10:48 am ]
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Hmmm .. now Im even greener .. sigh :( :wink:

Nice looking camera, you did well.. congrats again.

Author:  diggerdave [ Sun Nov 11, 2007 13:33 pm ]
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just checking back in post operation, and trying to catch up and then plan next year. amajor new expansion is planned.
ps I have no film in stock and just a few sliders. I shall restock soon. but no advance orders please, they get lost. Same goes for the blimps.

Author:  scoutcompany [ Mon Dec 03, 2007 23:30 pm ]
Post subject:  coronet Fildia

hi everybody..
i'm not into photography at all but.. i found this old box camera at my grandfather's and waswondering whether it's wartime or 50s, and whther i could get it to work again... if only i figure out how to open it.

its a Coronet Fildia.. made in birmingham and on a french website it said "1944"

thanks guys i know there are some experts here who will shed some light..


Author:  Mr_Flibble [ Tue Dec 04, 2007 7:35 am ]
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From what I can gather the ones made in France were all from the 1950s. Not sure if te British plant was producing them earlier. Most websites refer to 1950 or 1947 (might be just for the 620 film version though)

It looks like the film-advance part on yours is missing (it should be on the metal round thing on the right side of the camera when holding it) That is going to be a problem if you want to turn it into a user again.

The shutter has two settings (I for Instantanious, and B for Bulb). If it is set to I, flipping the shutter release switch on the right side up or down should fire the shutter. (On B the shutter will stay open when you move the switch and close it again when you move the switch in the other direction)
The mechanism also has 2 possible lens aparature sizes: f/16 and f32 for a bit more control on taking pictures in different lighting conditions.

The front part with the lens and shutter should come away from the part holding the film. I assume it is held together by some latches on the side and top (from what I can tell from the pictures over at Tweak.dk) You can probably get to the shutter elements from the inside then. If they are anything like my Kodak No2 Brownie they shouldn't be to hard to figure out and clean.

For cleaning lenses I use alcohol, for cleaning gunk out of the shutter mechanism I use Naphta (zippo fuel). On my No2 Brownie I used a minute drop of gun oil on the the moving parts afterwards.

Good luck,


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