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PostPosted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 7:49 am 
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joesruddock wrote:
What program are you using to edit these and how are you choosing to isolate the portrait?


I use Photoshop CS2. Its free to download from Adobe if you don't have a copy, but they generally don't advertise this. Send me a PM and I'll explain how to download it.

Step 1
First of all I chose a background, I simply googled ww2 airborne wallpaper or ww2 wallpaper in images. Most of the ones I got were from Medal of Honor Game Screens.

In Photoshop I created a new file with the size 4074 x 2700 pixels. I added the background image as a new layer and sized it to fit the screen using Free Transform.

On the background layer I added a New Adjustment Layer - Levels and a New Adjustment Layer - Hue/Saturation I first changed the Hue/Saturation by lowering the Hue to about 32. Then played with the Level to get the right contrast. Again on the background layer I added a Gaussian Blur Filter set at 5 pixels.

Step 2
I took photographs of Rory (Tommo) in front of a Hi-Key background, I used the Lastolite Hilite, the highlight houses 1 flash, I also had 1 flash with a softbox 6 feet infront of Tommo. I set the camera to an ISO 125, F/9 stops and a shutter speed of 1/30.

I then opened the photo of Tommo in Photoshop and set the levels if required. This is when it starts to get a bit complicated.

I made a duplicate layer of the image, and changed the levels to a darker more shadowed photo. Adjusted the Hue/Saturation to Hue 0 Saturation -100 and Lightness 0

Set the current layer to an overlay with opacity of 64%. Then merged the layers. Repeated a duplicate layer of the image, and changed the levels to a darker more shadowed photo. Adjusted the Hue/Saturation to Hue 0 Saturation -100 and Lightness 0 Again set the current layer to Color with opacity of 53%. Again merged the layers.

Again Duplicate the layer, set the Diffuse Glow to Glow amount 4 and clear amount 17. Set the opacity to 64%.
Again Duplicate the layer, set the Photo Filter Hue 0, Saturation to 89, Brightness to 91, Density to 25 with Preserve Luminosity.
Final time, duplicate the layer, set the Hue/Saturation to Without Colorize, Hue 0 Saturation 27 Brightness 0. Set the Opacity to 47%, Merge the Layers and set the Opacity to 81%.

Using the Magic Wand tool I selected all the white background and any bits showing through such as under the epalletes etc. Once all the white bits were selected I inverted the selection, so all of Tommo was now selected.

Step 3
Paste the photo of Tommo into a new layer and move the layer to the top.

Add a New Adjustment Layer - Levels and a New Adjustment Layer - Hue/Saturation I first changed the Hue/Saturation by lowering the Saturates to -68. You will see the colour in the front image drain out and pick up the background colouring. Then played with the Level to get the right contrast.

The Photo of Tommo is now very clean, but with a very prominant halo effect in white around the whole image. Using the Burn tool change the size of the tool so its smallish, set the fore colour to black and set the burn tool to Highlight at 28% simply burn away the halo. Patients is required to get the burn correct all around the photo.

Change the Burn tool to Midtones, but leave it at 28%, now leave the eyes so they stay bright but paint over the face, remember each time you do it, the photo will darken. Pick out areas around the lips, the nose, this will cast shadowing, and will slightly pinken the area, a good one on Tommo was around his neck and the hands. Again change the burn tool to Highlight, now when you paint the face and hands, they will grey giving the ellusion of more dirt. Change it the way you want it to look at this point.

Simples :D


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 9:14 am 
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Joined: Fri Nov 03, 2006 7:53 am
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Process looks good man, especially with working with CS2!! If only you had CS4+ to tackle the edges. You can download a trial from adobe and give it a whirl though.

When isolating your image from a high contrasting image, it's really important to decontaminate the colours and re-introduce lens effects. I find Photoshop CS4+ (I use CS6) can do this really well with the 'Refine Edge' tool found under the magic wand. With the shift and smooth the edge sliders, minus a couple of pixels (probably -2pxish) and then decontaminate the colours with the brush to get rid of any halo effects, artefacts, DOF processing problems and just general reflections. After this, I usually feather the edge around <1px at the scale you speak of.

Another way to make the difference softer in photoshop is to use a backdrop with slightly less of a contrast (maybe gray) and then spend a little longer isolating with the above process and levels/contrast tooling.

Your grading is really good, perhaps the third image could be a little more saturated? Or maybe use a warm tone on a blending mode.

Love the images man, looking good. Impressed considering you were using a CS2 workflow! Two is my favourite.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 9:20 am 
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Joined: Fri Nov 03, 2006 7:53 am
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Here is an image where I used the same isolating process. Obviously grading would have been a little easier with this but yh.


Last edited by joesruddock on Tue Jul 02, 2013 0:15 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 01, 2013 23:25 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jun 27, 2004 15:27 pm
Posts: 122
nice images andy_tucker217, they would look great "imo" as movie / book / game covers and pc desktop backgrounds.

do them for your own enjoyment / achievement *ollocks to everyone who moans about them its the law of averages unfortunately. :wink:


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