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PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 15:28 pm 
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Yes. Kodak poured loads of technology into the Lucky Film company a decade ago. But then the Chinese people started to buy loads of cheap digital cameras.
The Lomography crowd seems to love the film though.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 11, 2012 15:01 pm 
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Mr_Flibble wrote:
The lens on your Kodak 35 (I assume a 50mm f/4.5 Anastigmat) will also do a pretty good job on its own to give you a vintage looking picture. Personally I prefer the 51mm f/4.5 Anastigmat on the PH-324 for a bit more sharpness.


Cheers,
Rick


Here is the lens:
Image
Seems to be a 50mm Kodak Anastigmat Special f/3.5... It is from 1940.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 12, 2012 6:53 am 
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Ah, did'nt see you had an RF version. They came with a bit 'faster' lenses. "Special" in this case means it's been coated for improved capturing of light.

On the post-war cameras you'll find the "Anastar" lens. But I'm pretty sure it is the same as the Anastigmat though ;)


Image
My WW2 35mm family

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 26, 2012 20:19 pm 
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Nice collection! The one on the right is the military version isn't it?

I was wondering something (sorry, questions again :oops: ) about the adjustments -speed and opening- to be made on my Kodak 35RF when using the modern Lucky Color 200 film.
The 1940 manual indicates an average of f/8 and 1/100 for average outdoors subjects, but maybe it isn't adapted to the Lucky 200?

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 26, 2012 21:21 pm 
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Its the speed of the film, its reaction to light at a given aperture and exposure time that is important .. not the make ... Various makes of film will give you differing results, but a speed rating is, or should, be constant with any make of film ..

.. you could always try using a period exposure meter .. ??? :wink:

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 27, 2012 13:32 pm 
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Ah ok, thanks!
As you can see, I am not used to vintage, or at least analogic photography... :oops:

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 28, 2012 12:00 pm 
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The listings in the manual are for the slower speed films at the time (as previously stated 100 ISO was more ore less the fastest film at the time). So yes, you'll need to make some adjustments.

A light meter is a handy tool, but you can go a long way with the "Sunny f/16" rule (or an exposure calculator)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sunny_16_rule
This allows you to calculate your own exposure settings that should give you a reasonably exposed photo.
Basically it says in bright sunny weather set your aperture to f/16 and set the shutter speed closest to 1 / <film ISO> of a second.

So in bright sunlight, like at the beach or in the snow, with Lucky 200 film this says you'll need a shutter speed of 1/200th of a second (which your 35RF has) and the aperture set to f/16.

From there you can adjust depending on the light conditions.
Sun = f/11 (normal sunny day in our part of the world)
lightly overcast = f/8
overcast = f/5.6
dark overcast = f/4
etc.

Or print one of these exposure mat slide rulers ;)
http://expomat.tripod.com/


Sorry if I'm preaching to the choir a bit here...



And yes, the green Kodak 35 is a US Army version, the "PH-324". Another one is on the way to me from the US. It's in need of repairs unfortunately, but that's why it went rather cheap on Ebay.

Oh, and more camera p0rn

Image
A Zeiss Ikoflex III (model 853/16), as used by Yank photographer John "One Shot" Bushemi and homefront photographer Esther Bubley. Camera was a mess when I got it. broken shutter and stuck film advance/counter. Now back in working condition. Shame I can't do anything about the scuff marks on the lens (except put on a lens hood) ;)

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 28, 2012 14:05 pm 
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Nice... Have you ever compared how much those were worth new, converted to current prices? It's shocking.

I have a Kodak Retinette somewhere.... I'll get me gascape. :D

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 28, 2012 15:23 pm 
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I find that using a vintage camera entails a totally different mindset.

If I'm using a camera with an obscure film format that was a ballache to buy and with processing that's going to cost at least a tenner, I have a different view than when I'm snapping 100-odd pics with a DSLR

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 28, 2012 15:34 pm 
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So true! And you have to learn how to use this camera, not like simply pressing a button (above posts prove this :lol: ).

Many thanks again to Rick and Allen!

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 29, 2012 11:12 am 
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BarnacleBill wrote:
/\
Nice... Have you ever compared how much those were worth new, converted to current prices? It's shocking.

I have a Kodak Retinette somewhere.... I'll get me gascape. :D


Some have kept up pretty well in price, others are like digital cameras from 3 years ago.
I prefer not to think about what my collection has cost me so far to be honest :lol:

.....*pets Leica IIIcK* preciousssss.....

Getting a period camera doesn't have to cost an arm & a leg either. You can get a box camera for less then five quid


BedsnHerts, I agree. Any manual camera forces you to think instead of just pressing the button for 5 seconds in the hope of getting one good picture. Having only say 8 shots per roll (or two shots per film holder! ) also makes it too costly to make any screw-ups. (I still do though. I have some beautiful shots of the inside of a lens cap to prove it! :) )



Image
Vest Pocket Kodak (late model) and Kodak No.2 Box Brownie from the 1920s

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 13, 2012 7:30 am 
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Another camera on display


Image
Argus A , the "35mm camera for the proletariat"

This one came with stuck shutter and a missing film backing plate. Now back in working order.



A virtual cookie for those who knows who took the photo in the background ;)

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2012 20:05 pm 
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On the subject of period cameras on the cheap I have just aquired a Zorki 1. It is a Leica copy and from a certain distance does look the part. I've been informed that after the war the Russians just made these in the Leica factory and stamped it up in russian. I'd hope it's true as it was circa £50, not circa £500.

I must admit it is of a very good build quality, not at all what I'd expect from a Russkie camera. The only other USSR kit I've had was a Zenit B which although functional bid die in a mechanical fiasco. the Zorki picture are very good but with some curtain burn, which is common even on vintage Leicas. Looks like a white ghost effect, can be seen as two white 'splodges' bottom right of sculpture. Keeping the lens cap on and only taking it of to take shots sorts this nicely. I shall run some B&W through it and see what the result is. Probably Ilford FP4 125 seeing as I have a roll.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2012 20:10 pm 
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Oooohh nice film ... long time since I used it ... used to rate it at 200 ASA dilute the dev 1:1 and add 50% developement time ... great results ... !!

Zorkis are a good camera, same as Kievs ... unlike the Zorki though which is a direct copy .. the Kiev lent more to the original Contax I think as the Russians took over the whole factory complex I believe and used the Contax tools etc to make the Kiev.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2012 20:18 pm 
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Nice tip on the dev. Thanks.

I managed to cut the lead by hand on that colour film I put through, I was a bit nervious :lol: but I wasn't going to buy an Ablon template at that price.

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These 3 men are dead.
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"Laws that forbid the carrying of arms...disarm only those who are neither inclined nor determined to commit crimes. Such laws make things worse for the assaulted and better for the assailants; they serve rather to encourage than prevent homicides, for an unarmed man may be attacked with greater confidence than an armed one." Thomas Jefferson, Quoting Cesare Beccaria. 1809

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 16, 2012 13:50 pm 
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Let's see if I remember this right,

All Zorki I cameras (and later models) were built in the KMZ plant (Krasnogorsky Mekhanichesky Zavod) from 1947 to about 1990. They're almost straight copies of the 1932 Leica II.
The Leitz plant in Wetzlar was in the Western occupied zone (And hence them selling cameras to the US Army of the Occupation like my Leica IIIcK ).

At 50 quid you got a good one by the looks of it. The spots are probably just pin holes from the fabric/rubber deteriorating after 60 years, not so much from burn holes.
You can try and patch the spots on the curtains with a little dab of black fabric paint (or Liquid Electrical Tape), or as you say, keep the lens cap on as much as possible.

(Early) Kiev cameras were built using the original machinery, parts and tools taken from the Zeiss factory in Jena / Dresden in 1947 and moved to Kiev as part of war reparations.



On Bottom-feeders....errr -loading:
You really don't need the ABLON-template to cut the film leader, just make sure you cut straight and smooth and to cut in between the sprocket holes.

Alternatively, if you are feeling adventurous, you can:
Unscrew the lens,
Tension the shutter,
Set the shutter to 'Z' or 'B' or whatever it is on the Zorki,
Insert the film as far as it wil go.
Press the release button and keep it down.
Through the shutter opening guide the film into its final position.
Let go of button and screw the lens back in ;)


My Zorki I undergoing curtain repairs:
Image

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