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 Post subject: leather jerkin treatment
PostPosted: Tue Oct 25, 2016 22:55 pm 
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Joined: Fri Nov 30, 2007 13:37 pm
Posts: 156
Location: Isle of Thanet
Real Name: Ian Smales
What would people recommend to put onto a 1940 dated leather jerkin? It is quite supple already but I want to ensure it stays that way? I have some Pecard - is this suitable? Only thing is, it does tend to darken leather.

thanks

Ian


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 26, 2016 7:38 am 
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Joined: Thu Feb 03, 2011 22:03 pm
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Location: Hemel Hempstead & Derby
Real Name: Rob Fenn
Group: Poor Bloody Infantry
I just use standard decent* natural/'clear' dubbin. The use of a hair-dryer to gently warm the leather and dubbin helps it soak in nice and evenly. Don't worry about any darkening, it's only returning the leather back to it's non-dried-out colour. After the dubbin settles and soaks in fully it does and up lighter than when first applied.

See my picture of my dried-out jerkin being treated in this previous forum post - in the photo, the side on the left had dubbin freshly applied while the side on the right is still untreated and rather orange due to being so oil-less after years of drying out:

A bit of chat about leather:
http://www.wwiireenacting.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=80&t=90244&p=989247&hilit=dubbin#p989247

Photo in this post:
http://www.wwiireenacting.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=80&t=90244&p=989247&hilit=dubbin#p989247


(*Non-coloured/clear Cherry Blossom's "Premier Dubbin" is my preferred brand.)


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 26, 2016 10:04 am 
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Joined: Fri Nov 30, 2007 13:37 pm
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Location: Isle of Thanet
Real Name: Ian Smales
Many thanks for the guidance. Are you familiar with Pecard treatment?

thanks

ian


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 26, 2016 13:56 pm 
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Location: Hemel Hempstead & Derby
Real Name: Rob Fenn
Group: Poor Bloody Infantry
Alysloper wrote:
Many thanks for the guidance. Are you familiar with Pecard treatment?

thanks

ian


That's the stuff all the Yanks go mad about for their US leather jackets, yeah?

I've honestly never tried it myself, so can't give an opinion - but I tend to steer clear of the things which have additives for 'softening' leather, unless the item is rock-hard (in which case I usually resort to neatsfoot oil*). Just aim for high wax and oil composition in whichever leather dressing you choose.

*The use of neatsfoot oil should always been done sparingly, as (1) it can cause the leather to become too soft and allow the fibres to pull apart leading to 'wet tearing' and (2) it's moisture content nearly always will lead to mildue/mould appearing on the item a while after treating, especially if the item isn't in constant use/being handled regularly. Just wipe down the item with leather-safe anti-bacterial, allow to dry, and apply a bit of dubbin.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 26, 2016 14:13 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 08, 2013 17:07 pm
Posts: 54
Real Name: Chris Wharam
I had exactly the same problem a few weeks ago. I have an immaculate camouflaged jerkin which looked very supple but was very light in colour and obviously dry. I searched and searched and came up with a product called Renapur. Its British made and a fantastic product. It soaks in, leaves no residue or stickiness. It is recommended for all types of soft leather, jackets etc, but also leather car seats and sofa's. I am not often really impressed with a product, but this is fabulous and very easy to apply with a sponge that came with the tub. Just put Renapur into ebay..
Hope this helps.
Regards Chris.
PS. my Jerkin has gone a beautiful brown again, slightly darker than the dry tan colour I started with, but looks amazing..


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 26, 2016 18:49 pm 
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Joined: Wed Dec 05, 2012 20:23 pm
Posts: 199
Pecard is very good. Recommended to me by Peregrinvs. I've tried various leather creams over the years. Most seem to leave the leather a bit 'dry'. Pecard helps restore suppleness without discolouring. I've used is safely on male and ATS camo jerkins. I've also used it satisfactorily on DR Boots, machete and bayonet scabbards, P39 leather web gear etc etc


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 26, 2016 23:30 pm 
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Location: Karlsruhe, Germany (currently)
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Mink oil is what I use and recommend. Period correct, water-proofing and natural. I have heard that it does not encourage mold or any other unfavourable conditions, yet would I be glad if someone could confirm this. I never had any problems with mink oil, just remember not to put it on leather that you want to polish later on. Congratulations on the jerkin, by the way!


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 07, 2016 14:31 pm 
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Joined: Fri Nov 30, 2007 13:37 pm
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Location: Isle of Thanet
Real Name: Ian Smales
Thanks to everyone for their advice

Ian


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 07, 2016 17:21 pm 
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Real Name: Konrad
You are welcome! Let us know how it works out.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 07, 2016 17:50 pm 
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A little late maybe but I would like to add a footnote to this if I may.

Over the years I have had a lot of old original leather to look after, especially in relation to western re-enactment, saddles, bridles, gun belts etc etc etc .. and going on the premis that 'granny knows best' and that there is something to be said for old time remedies, I found this in an old Readers Digest book and tried it out very successfully.

Old leather can be hard and look powdery, however even in this condition and provided it hasn't been allowed to deteriorate for very long, leather can be re-vitalised.
You mix together 3 parts of Castor Oil with 2 parts of Surgical Spirit, surprisingly once mixed it doesn't separate again in a storage bottle.
You wipe or brush this mixture on the leather and leave for 24 hours, then wipe over again with Castor Oil .. if the leather is thick and stiff, work in saddle soap or hide cream afterwards, and repeat that until supple again.

As I say I have tried this and been pleased with the results, and to refer back to previous posts, personally I don't like Neatsfoot, it does have a tendency over time to rot stitching, I have found simple leather dressing ( I have used 'Golden' and 'Lincoln' brands ) to be very good, it can darken the leather it is true, but testing on an area not seen helps to decide whether or not you want to proceed with that.

Just a little two penneth you may find helpful .. ?

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 09, 2017 9:26 am 
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Real Name: Mark Stubbings
Group: The Great Exhibitonists
If it's leather, try using a mixture of 4 parts clean beef fat to 1 part pure cod liver oil. Mix them
on the hob but only hot enough to melt. Let it cool then rub it in by hand it really works.
For pigskin use lard, for sheepskin its lamb fat
what this does is replace the natural fats and after a week or so the smell of the oil vanishes
and it smells like new leather again, this 'balm' can then be frozen or if you can't be bothered
to make it, ( saved my ancient b3 ) try ko-cho-line .

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